New blood and a bit of nesting

So last week saw the arrival of 11 new VSOs in country plus Alice (who arrived in April). I really do wonder if they know what they have let themselves in for! All the training prepares you to some extent, but I didn’t really know what to expect!! Alice’s blog has a really telling account of what is faced here (http://www.alicewatermaninsierraleone.blogspot.com/). Out of the 10 volunteers who arrived last September and committed to 1 year placements, only one remains and I met her this week. A lovely Australian nurse teacher named Maria, who is based in Kenema (about 5 hours away) whom I mistakenly thought was Filipino before meeting her as all the VSOs from the Philippines are called Maria!! The other September 09 volunteers have mainly left the country but a couple are still here working for other NGOs. My 2 housemates were also Sept 09 arrvials and they left for Ireland a couple of weeks ago, leaving me alone in the flat (which I actually like). I arrived with 3 others in March and one person has already left!

So new blood! 11 new folks, a mixture of Kenyans, Ugandans, Brits and Dutch. All enthusiastic, eager and with 1 million questions. So what's it like here? What are your top 10 tips to a successful time here in Salone? How on earth can you answer these questions? Wonderful, terrible, beautiful, upsetting, puzzling, challenging, fascinating..... I did a bit of helping out by doing a presentation about the Ministry of Health and Sanitation during the in-country training programme. I didnt mention the rats (alive and dead) that share the corridors of power here.

Anyway, at the end of the presentation and discssion, I was surprised to be asked to give the volunteers 5 minutes on how I kept so healthy here (apparently I'm one of the few volunteers that have??).... regular blog readers this is NOT a joke! Mmm... so what to say? I immediately started with the contents of my handbag... deet, tissues, hand sanitiser, torch, phone, pen, swiss army knife, money (split into 2 and stored seaparately) and various pills, including parcetamol, rennies, larium and multivitamins. I explained in no particular order the contents were used to stop me getting the dreaded Malaria, to prevent 'Run Bele' for the 48th time, stop me falling into a gutter/open sewer in the dark (no joke, someone did this and bruised their armpits trying to break the fall, they are seriously deep!) and to keep my nutritional status from becoming too precarious!

However, when you stand there, looking the happy picture of health they somehow thought I was joking, or maybe its just how I tell it! And the knife? Well its for opening wine of course! Unfortunatley I have learned this week that two of the new volunteers have been in hospital, one with Malaria and one with Typhoid, both contracted in Freetown. Really bad news.

I also decided to help out with the Freetown orientation trip last Saturday and it was alot of fun. We all went in a poda, it was a bit of a squash!! This day made me realise how much I actually know about the town now and how far I have come in 3 months. VSO then threw a party for the new and 'old' volunteers on Saturday evening. There was nice food, soft drinnks and lots of silly dancing but I was the only person who arrived with alcohol. The bottle of vodka didnt stretch very far....

So the new VSOs are a cheery bunch and some new friends to invite to my newly transformed flat for dinner. The previous inmates weren't much into making it a home, but I am. I have purchased some batiks and local art plus I found an old bedspread which makes a nice throw for the hideous sofa and the two matching pillowcases make good cushion covers on my new cushions which were made from an old pillow I cut in half!! I turned the balcony into something out of a foam filled hammer house of horror massacre, but I am proud of the results!! Already the flat looks totally different and with no power since Wednesday, the candles give it a homely feel. I promise photos to be uploaded soon, so please return.....

A minor inconvenience..... and a few monkeys

So the Friday night before last, I'm coming home in a taxi on my usual route from the Youyi Building to Congo Cross, only its later and dark because I had a couple of beers after work. Its a very short drive of 2/3 minutes when there is little traffic. I'm feeling happy and relaxed (yes Tim, the 2 beers helped!!) and looking forward to meeting Kim, the new VSO due to arrive that evening whom I am cooking for and planning how to make her feel at home. As soon as I get in the taxi (which is full) the driver keep saying, 'your door isnt closed, close your door' so I pull at the door put it appears closed to me. The next thing I know, the guy next to me is leaning across me trying to close the door, fiddling with it and making a big thing about the general task of door closing. I protest that I am getting squashed (ie I had a young man lying on me and not in a fun way!!) and I say I'm getting out very soon so please stop trying to close the bloody door! Anyway the taxi pulls over and I get out relieved, only to find out that my bag is slightly open and I've been robbed of my purse and phone.

The following week I chat to Zoe (one of the other VSO volunteers) and discover that she was the victim of exactly the same scam. Of course I had brought a spare phone with me (but failed to note down all the numbers, thanks for them) and after a trip to the Zain shop in town by 10.30am I was back in full communcation with the world!

There is no moral to this story really because Freetown is probably safer than most European cities and this could have happened to me in Macc! I refuse to let this dent my confidence although it has a little. I had a major panic in a taxi last week after dark when it took me the wrong way and into the slums but he had just misheard where I wanted to go, but we had a slight debate (argument) and I got to the right place! Normally, I keep my hand on my bag all the time when using public transport, but I just didnt this time.... but I've stopped being angry with myself and after all, its just a phone and no real harm done. I had 3 years of photos and text messages in that phone and at first I was sad to loose this 'mini' history of my life but you know, it was also cathartic. new start, new phone and all that!!!

Photos accompanying this blog were taken at Tacugama Sanctuary (http://www.tacugama.com/) above Freetown, which I visited a weekend in early June with Gavin and Helen. I didnt get around to blogging about it... Basically rescued chimps roam free and laugh at the cagged humans observing them!

To boldly go... to Liberia (10 to 13 June)

So many Brits go to Spain for the sun or if they are brave enough to stay in the UK, maybe Cornwall and some hardened northerners (I think I am one) go to the Lakes, North Wales and Scotland and even camp! I very much doubt that many lasses from Wigan have ever been to Liberia on holiday! Ok well it was more of a long weekend and Helen and I were actually the only ones on holiday as everyone else went on very serious missions.
The motley crew was Gavin (organiser), Faye, Dave, Helen, me and Idris the driver. We set off over the mountain from Freetown at 6am as the journey ended up being 13 hours to Monrovia and almost half of the time on rough dirt tracks.

The journey made was slightly longer as we distributed footballs along the way to schools we passed. Gavin brought them from the UK, they were donated by friends and neighbours. Kids here use plastic bags filled with rubbish, or rice if they are lucky, as footballs (see photos). The football distribution was a great success and really worth the time taken. However, the main time stealer was progressing through about 9 check points plus both sides of the border.

At the check points, we had to deal with various requests (for money, something for the office, proposals of marriage, lifts to somewhere along our journey) and accusations (breaking the law, paperwork not in order etc) but we also met some helpful officials and wondered at the number of times its possible for our passport details, occupation, address etc to be written down in big A4 books and why!! After a while we learnt to send only one person out of the car and started to time how long they got us through the checkpoint. The quickest time was 7 minutes, the longest was at the border, where we lost the will to live never mind measure the time! The main way of dealing with all this was to be polite, firm and constantly mention the football (that's the world cup mum, its on at the moment!!) as this diffused any situation.

We also had to have our Yellow Fever certificates checked at 'Port' health although we were miles form the sea. Helen amazingly managed to blag her way through all of the checks with only a scanned copy of her document, havin left the real thing in Kailahun! I think she should join the secret service when she gets bored of being a midwife.

So what was Monrovia/Liberia like? Its a hard question to answer because in many ways, the country is very similar to Salone, a poor, post-conflict country with the population and government working to rebuild their lives and towns. However Salone does win on a few fronts (not that its a competition or anything, well not much). Freetown I think is bigger and more diverse although possibility more run down/more slums than Monrovia, but hard to judge in a day. The infrastructure in Liberia seemed a little bit better (pavements, street lights and better housing stock on the route we took), however it didnt feel as friendly. We spent 2 nights in Monrovia staying as guests with the Office of Tony Blair team and they had splendid flats (air con, baths and get this...hot showers!) and oh, a lovely pool outside the apartment, I managed 2 swims. Of course they were all nice folks too and we had a couple of good fun evenings out with great food (even sushi), but it was the facilities (lying by the pool in the sun) and the day's sightseeing in Monrovia plus the 2 Watermelon Martinis on the 2nd night that really made it feel like a holiday! I did also learn something about Liberia especially that it has had loads of presidents since independance in 1847 and it now has its first female president: Madam Ellen Johnson Sirleaf (remember for the next pub quiz).

The final night was spent in Roberts Port. A resort on the coast where we stayed in 'luxury' tents at Nana Lodge (they have a website). This was really relaxing and we enjoyed swmming in the sea, watching the England game and fresh fish on the beach. The accomodation came with its own inidividual wildlife inside the tent (not the human kind) and all for free with no nets!

Finally on Sunday morning, all too soon we had to set off back home, without Helen, who we left in Monrovia on Thursday evening to find her way to the airport and then flying to Ethiopia for a week with her sister. I can however report that Helen is safely back in S/L after taking public transport all the way from Monrovia to Freetown (surviving part of the journey in a taxi with 11 others in an ordinary car with 3 on top). So I've figured out that compared to many here, I'm not really much of an adventurer or that tough after all!

Final big thanks goes to Gavin and Faye who organised the whole trip. You are both fab!

A Mission Quite Possible (23rd May to 1 June)

I don’t think I’ve talked very much about the ‘Strengthening District Health Services Project’ catchy title eh, or SDHSP. Its an African Development Bank (ADB) 90% funded programme with technical support provided by UNFPA (United Nations Population Fund). It amuses me when folks talk about the UN family (= UNICEF, UNHCR, UNDP, UNFPA etc, half of them are a mystery to me)…. Anyway I am going off at a tangent again, its an African thing, so are lots of abbreviations! So this project ‘strengthens’ 5/13 of the Districts which are Bo, Bonthe, Tonkolili, Kenema and Port Loko, with the provision of drugs, equipment, renovation of key facilities and training. Our Mission purpose was to assess the impact was of all this support and to meet with the local communities and District teams to discuss the progress of the project. Please note that everything here is called a MISSION, I like that! I have been asked many times ‘What is your Mission?’ I need to have a better answer than the one given in my previous blogs!!

So, back to the subject of this blog. On 23rd May we set off on a 10 day, 5 District ‘Mission’ from God (and probably Allah too). It wasn’t dark, we weren’t wearing suits but I was wearing sunglasses (watch the Blues Brothers if that makes no sense to you). First stop was Kenema Government Hospital on Sunday afternoon and visiting the new Sightsavers International service newly built on the hospital site… due to be opened by HE the President later that week. My boss was worried that the HE’s entourage wouldn’t make it up the partly completed ramp into the car park, he had a good point!

Then the Mission really started properly on Monday, but after the first morning I felt I needed to step in. The five strong team appeared to have no defined roles, proper objectives or a way of reporting back. By the end of the afternoon, we had the objectives clarified, roles agreed, a reporting format and the Kenema report written in draft! We did this in 2.5 hours as a team. This was after I refused to go off and write a report on my own, in the nicest possible way of course but everyone then contributed and I felt that they knew what they were doing for the remaining 4 districts as we had one of the most important management tools going… a format! This cunning plan sort of worked although there was some residual report writing done back at the office at the end of the trip. This could be something to do with the fact that I left the trip a day early due to developed a roaring chest infection which has only just cleared up and yes of course, the usual!

However.... the grand tour was great, if a bit challenging (rough roads, 10 days of African food only, trying to motivate folks, seeing upsetting scenes in the hospitals and clinics etc). So has any reader ever eaten goat curry and rice for breakfast then? This is the upcountry food. Also I discovered that asking for salad here means a bit of lettuce, cucumber and tomato which are then smothered I cold beans, luncheon meat, sometimes potato and other indescribable non salady things, apparently if you don’t want all these 'trimmings' then you have to ask for french salad!

From the trip, I can report that Free Health Care here is definitely happening, which is very positive but also still an enormous struggle. Loads of logistical problems but people are turning up at facilities all over the country in their 10s and 100s. Its the beginning of implementation after all. Ultimately it was fantastic to see all these woman and children accessing much needed health care. I took some fabulous photos during the visits to the clinics and I have finally uploaded a few onto Facebook (see also a few here, when they are uploaded). I've had several friends contact me saying how moving the ‘snaps’ are so I'm obviously discovering a new career option: professional photographer, which appears to be a better one than returning to the NHS at the moment!!!

A belated blog!

OK so this is really a blog about blogs. I just wanted people to know that I haven't dropped of the face of the planet, but yes NO BLOG for 3 weeks! Three reasons: (1) I was on a 10 day District Tour from Sunday 23rd May to Tuesday 1 June and visited Bo, Bonthe, Tonkolili, Kenema and stayed in Makeni (Bombali). I came home a day early and missed the Port Loko visit because (2) I got sick. This time it wasn't the usual stomach bugs where I can usually function Ok, but I came home with a bad chest infection and yes more runs! After several days of trying and failing to get better, the worst day being Saturday where I couldnt leave the house, eventually I resorted to the antibiotics (Cipro) and I am now a convert to the magic of this drug! And reason no (3) last Thursday I went on a 4 day trip to Liberia! Our Mission (and yes we chose to accept it) was to boldy go down many dirt tracks, through many police check points, arrive at the Liberian border, more checks and police and immigration and Port Health people checking yellow fever documentation (although we werent actually at a port!!) and finally arriving in Monrovia a mere 13 hours later...... so got back last night and I'm quite tired but fine. So I promise blogs on: Rural Sierra Leone and Liberia but no more on being ill! The photo is on the beach in Monrovia, just to demonstrate I'm healthy and well


One thing that has really surprised me is how many people actually read this blog. From as far away as New Zealand, Milan, New York, Denver, Sydney, Copenhagen and many friends in the UK! Thank you for being so interested, in addtion to my fathful family!! I'd love to receive comments ... you can now comment without signing up! more soon Carole

The emotional rollercoaster and a BIG decision

I've steered away from becoming too personal in this blog, because, well, its a public blog and no-one wants to hear self absorbed drivel about ones emotional state! Or do you? Well now I've decided to indulge. Those of you who know me well, also know that despite being a tough old bird I do feel things deeply and I dont always manage to hide turmoil or upset in my life, although after almost 45 years of practising hiding my feelings, its a well developed skill, to all but the most highly trained of eyes (about 4 people).

In the last week before I left I found myself crying, every day at almost nothing, this included being given a bookmark by Nicky and Paul (lovely, supportive neighbours) with a picture of Teggs Nose on it (this isnt actually a nose, its my local favourite hill to walk!), leaving Scuzzy (my spoilt cat brat) to go and have the best holiday ever in the Cotswolds and my mum saying that she would be proud of me even if I didnt manage to last more than a week here! It wasn't that I was actually sad, more like petrified and realising that I'd told the world and his wife that I was doing this so it would be too late to back out now.

What was I thinking? I had no development experience, been to sub saharan Africa once for 10 days, 10 years ago. You are thinking, a middle aged woman having a mid life crisis perhaps and needing to go to Africa to re-discover what life was really about!! Well I still dont know why I really came here, but I do know now, 2 months, on that it was the right decision. But it wasn't like that from the moment I landed. I spent the first 2 weeks wondering how I could possibly get used to being here, to shut out some of the more difficult aspects of life (some sights, sounds and even smells!), get into some kind of routine, try and remember who everyone was and to get used to the heat and the food. Oh and add starting a new job to that list! I wanted to run home, but I am far too stubborn to do that and thank God for that annoying streak of mine, it kept me here.

Slowly I adapted and stopped thnking about how long I'd been here and instead how long I had left. I've found myself really starting to notice and take joy in the most simplest things in life (yes even more Rosie!!), like switching on the hall light last week and saying to myself 'power, yes!!' like it was some kind of miracle. I take the time to talk to people in a way I've never done before and consciously take in the sights and sounds around me, even they are upsetting. So in a way, I am more emotional here, but in a good way. Making friendships here has also been very important to me and its difficult when people leave (Martin, Tim, Jamal and others) because they leave a gap that cant be filled.

So... I have made a big decison to extend my placement and stay till Christmas and I await VSO's response. The only thing on the horizon to scupper my decsion to stay is the impending rains. They have started. Everything stops, no more trips to the beach, even buying bread and gettign to work will be a major ordeal. I hope to cope with it constantly raining non-stop for days on end! So to avoid some of it I'm coming home for a month from 30th July to escape and enjoy the rain in the UK instead!

The pictures with this blog are all taken today at 3 different primary health care facilites in the Kenema District (5 hours from Freetown) where we are on a monitoring visit.

About nothing in particular.....

I couldnt figure out a theme this week so here are some random thoughts and observations in no particular order that leave me happy, sad, curious and other emotions…....


Children work so hard here, from being so young. Saw a child no more than 8 trying to balance a huge barrel of water on his head this morning at Kenema Hospital and he would have managed it too, if it hadn’t been dripping all over him. I assume he wasn’t in school, you have to pay (and it costs about a months salary at least for most, that’s if the parents have a job

The rains are coming and when it does rain, its like god pouring buckets of water on the earth!


Inanimate objects have more importance here. My trusty laptop, coupled with mobile internet is my lifeline (thanks Adam) and this technology seems at odds in a country where water and electricity are constantly a challenge for most citizens (including me!)
Poverty and suffering is all around every day but yet, this is very far from a depressing place

People are incredibly stylish here (not me obviously) and you see women come out of corrugated iron shacks looking like a million dollars.

• The money smells terrible and is a main source of cross infection, although new money has just been released and there are funny posters telling people not to put the money in their underwear, write on it or fold it wrongly!!


• Many people talk about their experiences of the war and there are so many accounts. Its like an enormously complex 3d jigsaw puzzle to me. But there are some commonalities in the stories which I am trying to piece together. Certainly everyone I talk to are proud that their country is once again safe and peaceful


• 90% of the vehicles are not roadworthy in my humble opinion. I almost got out of a taxi the other day when I realised that the terrible noise was the back axle scrapping on the ground
• Only about 30% of the population here are literate, but this doesn't stop the eloquent debate about Politics and Football in equal measure!


• Great French type bread, fresh warm and incredibly cheap

Wonderful beaches and great coastline yet most Saloneans don’t seem to be able to swim, of have even visited most of the beaches south of Lakka (ie gone more than about 10 miles out of Freetown)

Amazing religious tolerance. Predominant religions are Christian and Muslim. Inter marriage is quite usual as is joint prayers at the start of meetings. Religion plays an important part of society. Churches and Mosques are full and everyone dresses up for the occasion

People have the most fantastic smiles!!

A weeks worth of drinking water, is very very heavy to carry home!

Everyone hold hands with each other, including the men

You have to take time to greet people and this does extend the time it takes to do anything! However I have stopped noticing this in favour of enjoying the social interaction, its become part of my job!

Entertainment of public posters! Apparently one down town in a photography shop read 'we shoot you while you wait'


• There are the most amazing electrical storms!


• The local Star beer is actually quite good and I good do with one now, writing is thirsty work!